Buyer guide · Updated August 2026

Bathroom Ventilation and Damp: Fixing the Cause, Not the Mould

Repainting a mouldy bathroom ceiling is treating the symptom. In almost every case the underlying cause is air that cannot leave the room fast enough. This guide covers what a bathroom actually needs to stay dry.

Key takeaways

  • Mould on cold surfaces means condensation, not a leak
  • Duct runs and bends matter more than the fan's rated figure
  • Specify a run-on timer as a minimum, humidity sensing for family bathrooms
  • Never discharge a bathroom fan into a loft

Why bathrooms get damp

A hot shower puts a surprising volume of water vapour into a small room in a few minutes. If that vapour cannot be extracted, it condenses on the coldest surfaces - the ceiling, the window reveal, the external wall corner - and mould follows within weeks.

The pattern is diagnostic: mould concentrated on cold surfaces and in corners points to condensation, not to a leak.

Extractor sizing and placement

Building Regulations set a minimum extract rate for bathrooms, and the practical point is that an undersized or badly ducted fan will not meet it regardless of its label. Long flexible ducting runs, crushed ducting in a loft and multiple bends all cut the real extract rate sharply.

Placement matters too. A fan on the far side of the room from the shower, with the door undercut providing make-up air, moves far more moisture than a fan sited badly.

Run-on timers and humidity sensing

A fan that stops when the light goes off has done perhaps a third of its job. A run-on timer continues for several minutes after you leave. A humidity-sensing fan goes further and runs until the room is actually dry, which is the right specification for a family bathroom with back-to-back showers.

What to do in a room with no external wall

Internal bathrooms need ducted extraction to the outside, routed as directly as practical with rigid duct where possible. Recirculating a fan into a loft void is not an acceptable solution - it simply moves the moisture problem into the roof structure.

Quick questions

Will opening the window fix condensation?

It helps, but only while it is open and only in some weather. Mechanical extraction with a run-on timer is the reliable fix.

Why is mould only in the corners?

Corners are colder than flat wall areas, so condensation forms there first. It is a strong indicator of a ventilation problem rather than a plumbing leak.

Can I fit an extractor fan myself?

Bathroom extractor wiring falls under Part P electrical requirements in most configurations, so the electrical connection should be done and certified by a competent person.

Does anti-mould paint solve the problem?

It slows regrowth on the surface. It does nothing about the moisture load, so without better ventilation the mould returns.

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